The heat bed of the X1 series printer is a platform installed inside the printer chamber, which can move up and down along the Z direction and can be heated according to the temperature set by the user. Setting a suitable heat bed temperature can effectively improve the adhesion between the model and the build plate and prevent the model from warping. In order to optimize assembly and reliability, we have made changes to the structure of the heat bed.
Replacing the Heat Bed(V2) | Bambu Lab Wiki
The X1 series printers on the market are equipped with both V2 and V3 heatbed, and they will all be transitioned to V3 heatbed in the near future.
The V3 heatbed is easier to replace than the V2 heatbed, but there is no difference in functionality. This variation is a result of changes in our production schedule.
In addition, please note that different versions of the heatbed must correlate to the relevant version of the AC board.
If your printer was originally equipped with a V2 heatbed and you need to upgrade to a V3 heatbed, you must also upgrade the original AC board on your printer to the AC board used for the V3 heatbed.
AC board(for V2 version heatbed) | Bambu Lab Wiki
AC board (for V3 version heatbed) | Bambu Lab Wiki
1. The heat bed does not heat up, and it has been confirmed that the connectors are all in a normal state;
(You can refer to this wiki Troubleshooting of heat bed not heating up to check the connections.)
2. Physical damage or obvious deformation affects the function;
3. The service team give the conclusion that the heat bed needs to be replaced.
Prior to commencing with the process in this guide, please make sure the machine is switched off.
The script in the video is slightly different from the script in the graphic instructions below. Please refer to the video if there is a conflict. We will modify the script details in the graphic instruction below.
In the startup state, operate on the screen to move the heat bed, and place it at a height of about ⅔ of the way up. Then turn off the printer, disconnect the power cord, and remove the glass top cover. You can also place the printer on its left side while it is turned off, and then pull the Z-axis belt to raise the heat bed to the same height.
NOTE: There are a lot of screws involved in this procedure. Please label them and group them in separate sections to avoid issues.
Remove the 10 screws and 4 screws from the rear cover shown in the picture. There are 2 types of screws, so keep them separate and remember which ones go where.
Remove the rear cover by unlocking the right side belt tension port first, and then the left side one to avoid getting stuck.
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As shown in the figure below, remove 1 silver screw with an H2.0 hex key, remove 2 black screws with an H1.5 hex key, and then remove the excess chute.
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Remove the 2 screws with an H2.0 hex key, and then remove the cable railing; Remove the 6 screws with an H1.5 hex key, and then proceed to take off the power cable cover.
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According to the position shown in the following figures, remove the 11 screws securing the right panel, remove them in turn, and then remove the right panel.
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Refer to this page Replace the right panel for more details.
Put the printer upright, unscrew the ground cable with the H2.0 hex key, and then release the heat bed cables from the cable tie and the cable holes.
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To remove the power cables, first, take off the protective rubber sleeve. Then, using tweezers, carefully release the lock and gently pull out the two power cables one at a time.
It is recommended to remove some silicone glue from the connector (use tweezers or a hair dryer to heat it, but do not use a heat gun), and then disconnect the signal cable of the heat bed.
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To remove the cable mesh, carefully tear off the tape at both ends of the mesh.
Unscrew 2 screws and remove the holding plate.
Use the H2.0 hex key to carefully loosen the six screws that hold the heat bed in place and lift it away from the Z-sliders. Three of the screw heads are covered by stickers.
And then, lay it on its side, as shown in the image below, and gently pull out the heat bed cables. Then, carefully lift the heat bed away from the printer
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To install the heat bed, first, place it on the 3 Z-sliders and then slide the heat bed as far forward as possible. Once it is in position, use the hex key to carefully tighten the six screws to hold it in place.
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Next, place the printer on its right side. Then, pass the heat bed cables through the cable hole on the rear slider. Make sure to arrange the cables and press them into the cable groove of the rear slider. Once the cables are in place, install the cable holding plate and secure it with two screws.
Install the cable mesh onto the cables, securing the ends with tape.
To complete the installation, pass the ground cable through; then, position and secure the power cable and signal cable into the provided cable buckle/clip. Finally, secure the ground cable with the provided screw.
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Check the status of the power cable plugs. Once they are confirmed, connect both plugs to the AC board connector. Finally, mount the protective sleeve to complete the process.
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To connect the heat bed signal cable, attach it to the corresponding connector on the MC board and connect the MC-AC connection cable if you disconnected it on disassembly. Then, apply silicone glue to the connectors for added stability.
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According to the positions shown in the figure below, find the positions of the 11 screws that fix the right panel and lock the screws in sequence.
Note: There are two types of screws, which must be distinguished and cannot be switched.
Refer to this page Replace the right panel for more details.
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When installing the new cable cover onto the printer, be careful not to accidentally clip or catch any of the cables or wires. Once the cover is in place, secure it by tightening the 6 screws. Reinsert the cable railing back to its original position and proceed to fasten the 2 screws.
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Install the excess chute on the printer, paying attention to the limit buckles on both sides of the chute and install them in place, and do not press the cable. Lock in 2 black screws to secure the excess chute from the top and lock in 1 silver screw on the left side.
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Pass the PTFE tube through the tube bracket; next, install first the right side belt tension port and then the left side to install the rear cover.
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Install the 10 + 4 screws (see picture).
Connect the power cord and turn on the power.
Run a Device self-test operation as shown below, and if no errors occur, the replacement was successful.
Should you come across any issues, first retrace your steps and check all connections to try again. If problems persist, contact the service team for further assistance.