The X1 needs maintenance similar to other 3D printers. Here are some recommendations on what needs to be checked periodically to ensure the smooth operation of the printer.
While the Carbon rods used on the X-axis don't require lubrication or maintenance, it's still recommended to clean them out periodically for dust and buildup.
The x-axis carbon rods should be checked once a month for any dust and particle buildup. If volatile filaments such as ABS\ASA are used, it is recommended to clean every 5 rolls (5 kg).
The X-axis Carbon Rods can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and a dust-free cloth. Spray a bit of isopropyl alcohol on the fabric and gently rub the carbon rods to clean any debris.
The process is described in this guide:
Three Z-axis lead screws require regular greasing. They are used for moving the heated bed on the Z axis, and proper greasing ensures to move smooth operation.
The z-axis lead screws should be checked and greased every three months.
Before greasing the z-axis lead screws, the first step before would be to clean them of any dust or plastic particles.
The next step is to use lubricating grease and apply a thin coat over the lead screws. With the bed home, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease, then move the bed to a lower position.
Apply another thin coat of grease on the z-axis lead screws and home the printer again.
You can repeat the movement process a few times to ensure the grease is evenly spread over the z-axis lead screws. When complete, clean out any excess grease that builds up close to the leadscrew nuts.
To ensure smooth movement, the X1 uses LMU8 bearings and 8mm linear rods to ensure smooth movement. The bearings are greased from the factory， in order to prevent rust and prolong the service life, regular cleaning, and anti-rust maintenance are recommended for linear rods.
Y-axis and Z-axis linear rods should be checked once a month for any dust and particle buildup. If volatile filaments such as ABS\ASA are used, it is recommended to clean every 5 rolls (5 kg).
Y-axis and Z-axis rods should be anti-rust every six months.
Y-axis and Z-axis linear rods can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and a dust-free cloth. Spray a bit of isopropyl alcohol on the cloth and gently rub the rods to clean any debris.
The anti-rust maintenance of the Y-axis and Z-axis linear rods can also be done by spraying some anti-rust oil on a dust-free cloth, and then wiping the rods.
If the bearing has abnormal ball noise due to insufficient internal lubrication, you can also try to apply some grease on the bearing and slide the bearing several times to make the grease soak into the bearing to reduce the abnormal noise. This operation may be difficult to implement, but the abnormal sound will not affect the printing performance in theory, so it can be ignored.
The X1 Extruder assembly can get filament dust and debris inside after using the printer for a long time. Some filaments generate more dust than others, so your mileage might vary.
You should clean the dust inside the extruder when you can see small amounts of dust on the yellow gear.
The fastest way to clean it and ensure the extruder is free from debris or filament dust is to use a can of compressed air and blow air over the yellow gear.
You can also remove the hotend and blow some compressed air underneath the extruder. This should clean most of the filament dust inside.
The Micro Lidar uses a small camera and a laser to calibrate. The camera and laser need to be kept clean for smooth operation.
The Micro Lidar must be cleaned when an error message pops up or the light is abnormal. If regularly printing with ABS, the camera must be cleaned every 3-5 days, as ABS particles can build up on the camera lens.
Using a microfiber cloth and some isopropyl alcohol, gently rub the camera of the Micro Lidar. A q-tip can also be used as it allows the user to reach the camera easier.
The filament cutter used in the X1 extruder cuts the filament regularly, during filament swaps. The blade of the cutter can get dull after a few rolls of filament are printed so it should be checked regularly to ensure that the blade is still sharp.
For regular filaments like PLA/PETG/ABS/PC, the blade should be checked every 3-5 rolls. If the blade is dull, replace it.
For abrasive filaments like PA+CF/PA+GF, the cutter blade can get dull much quicker, so we recommend checking it after printing 1-2 rolls of abrasive materials. If the blade is dull, replace it.
Update: We have found that after about 5.000-7.000 filament cuts, the filament blade can get dull but the blade might not get deformed as shown in the image above.
If you encounter issues with the AMS filament retractions, we recommend replacing the blade for the best results. If the blade is sharp, the filament will be cut cleanly and should not cause problems during operation.
The process of replacing the filament cutter is described in this Wiki article.
The silicone sock around the hotend helps maintain a consistent temperature while also protecting the hotend from plastic buildup during printing.
The silicone sock should be replaced if wear signs are present on it, or if the silicone sock doesn't remain attached securely to the hotend.
Simply remove the old silicone sock from the hotend, and install a new one.
There are multiple idler pulleys installed on the printer. These idlers have sealed bearings inside which don't require greasing, but we still recommend adding a bit of lubricating oil between the idler flange and the plastic holder to avoid any squeaking noises.
When squeaking noises are present during printing, or during the XY axis movement.
A small amount of lubricating oil should be applied on top and on the bottom of the idler, in the location between the idler flange and the plastic holder, if needed. Avoid adding lubrication oil to the idlers if no squeaking noises are present, to avoid any dust buildup.
The chamber camera lens should be cleaned regularly, to ensure a clear view.
We recommend cleaning the camera lens when the video is blurred or visibly dirty. If printing ABS, we recommend cleaning it every week.
Using a microfiber cloth and some isopropyl alcohol, gently rub the chamber camera. A q-tip can also be used as it allows the user to reach the camera easier.
There are three fans that should be regularly checked for any dust and debris build-up. The hotend fan, front cover fan and the auxiliary fan. They should be regularly checked for debris or dust buildup to ensure a smooth operation and long life.
We recommend checking the fans every week to clean any debris or dust that might have built up around the blades.
With the printer off, we recommend using a can of compressed air. While keeping the fan blades in place, use the compressed air to blow air over the blades and clean any dust or debris.
The nozzle wiper is an important part of the X1 that needs to be checked from time to time, to ensure it is undamaged, and the cleaning process works well.
The nozzle wiper needs to be checked before starting any print, to ensure it is free of any filament debris and the PTFE side is not damaged. The wiper should also stay in a horizontal position for proper operation
If the nozzle wiper is damaged, we recommend replacing it with a spare according to this Wiki guide.
The Activated Carbon Air Filter is used for filtering some of the particles generated during the printing process and should be replaced regularly.
We recommend replacing the activated carbon air filter every three months if the printer is used for about 8 hours a day. If the printer is used as a production machine, we recommend changing the filter every month.
Replacing the activated carbon air filter is easy. Simply take out the old filter and install the new one, as described in this wiki article.
The X1 uses different PTFE tubes for guiding the filament from the AMS to the extruder. PTFE tube is quite resilient but there are some cases where it needs to be replaced.
The PTFE tube should be replaced when clear signs of wear are shown on it. Most of the time, the inside of the PTFE tube can wear out quickly when printing abrasive filaments, so we recommend checking after printing about 5 rolls of abrasive materials.
When printing regular filaments, we recommend checking the tubes after about 10 rolls of material.
Replacing the PTFE tube can be a quick task, or a longer one, depending on what section of PTFE tube needs to be replaced. Check out our Wiki for information about this.
The AMS has two slots where desiccant packs can be installed to keep the moisture low inside. These packs of desiccant need to be replaced from time to time for best performance.
The desiccant packs need to be replaced when the contents turn into a yellowish gel.
The replacement process for the AMS desiccant packs is described in this Wiki article.